La Chureca, Managua, Nicaragua

Like most cities in developing countries, the dump is an essential part of the economy. Eric's story for Bloomberg about the crisis at La Chureca in Managua appears here.

cows, pigs, vultures, dogs, children
an entire community
boys men
fires vultures

JK Visit #2! 2008

Our good friend Jeannine came to visit us for a week after her eco-adventure in Panama. We were far less eco and more Flor de Cana but it was really fun, as usual. We did make a few side trips including a canopy tour over a crater lagoon in Managua (only she has photos), a visit to El Brujo-Chocoyero where almost 1,000 parrots nest in the cliff walls and the weekend in San Juan del Sur. We miss you Nano!


off for a hike.


JK and I did the canopy tour at the Tiscapa Laguna at the last minute. We were the only customers that day and received a lot of attention. We both wanted to be paired with Enrique but no such luck. He rode alone.

Someone could have told me to fix my hair.
More photos here.

We 'heart' MGA

Despite Eric's best efforts to find things to dislike, we both can't help but love living in the city that everybody hates. We have yet to be robbed in broad daylight and contrary to popular belief in Granada, it is MUCH cooler here. Our house is perfect and we have already hosted many visitors. There is a lot to do in our neighborhood, Altamira, especially at the mall (haha), and we are lucky to live within walking distance of all of the most important things.

This is our street

Our front patio area

Our beautiful Masaya hammock

The cat in an irresistible pot

More photos of the house here, including before and after shots of our kitchen.

Corinto. That was weird...

Children playing on the beach near our hotel.
Corinto is in the northwest corner of Nicaragua in the department of Chinandega. It is actually an island linked to the mainland by a small bridge and an isolated road for the freight trucks carrying cargo to the port. To us, the town was a cross between Bluefields and Granada - a funny little combination. The whole area is part of a beautiful estuary which we happened to travel through extensively (in a tiny and totally inadequate Suzuki Alto) due to bad researching. We didn't see any other tourists while we were there and I was told approximately 10 times by very kind citizens that I was likely to be robbed and attacked while Eric was working and I was by myself on the beach. I stayed close to the restaurants so they could keep an eye on me although I didn't feel threatened for one minute.
We originally went up north so Eric could cover a US Navy Medical Ship that was stationed off the coast to perform surgeries. Here is Eric's story on the medical ship.
We traveled to a really high end hotel that essentially services people with yachts. It was very hard to get to over land. I watched an amazing sunrise the day we had to leave since we were forced to leave at 5 am to make it home before dark!

Lizzie's Despedida

We had a rather scandalous party this weekend and the sala still reeks after 3 consecutive days of mopping. not an easy task when the water is cut off around 8 am.
Anyway, it was a great party and I already miss the guest of honor, Lizzie, a volunteer who had been here for 6 months. You can see more photos of the pinata, our friends and the Nicaraguan conservative party vice presidential candidate in the last elections here

Anne and Joan's Visit

Our friends from New York, Anne and Joan, came for a visit this week.
It was so great to see them after so long. They came to relax but we dragged them all over Nicaragua. We hope they had fun!

More photos!

Double Riding

Today was a big day for me. I rode all the way home from school along the highway on the cross bar of a stranger's bike. I also double rode my first passenger! A student (my favorite) needed to go home due to a massive inflammation of his eye (most likely pink eye) and someone needed to speak to his mother.

For those unaware of this amazing mode of transport, a brief description. You may place any number of people on your bicycle in various locations. Women ride side saddle on the cross bar, regardless of the sex of the driver. Men can ride astride the cross bar or standing on specially installed posts on the back tire of the bike. Any number of configurations can be assembled on one bike at a time and you will regularly see entire families on one bike. Mother side saddle holding baby (or babies), older children at the rear. My personal favorite is a man with a toddler balanced on his knee so the baby/toddler moves up and down with the rhythm of the peddling.

Yes, it all appears very dangerous and your legs tend to fall asleep but you get used to it. Really.

Jeannine with Winston, one of my favorite boys in Granada, at the isletas



Christy with Winston

So, you ask, what have we been doing for the last year? Here we go...
We moved to Granada




We took spanish lessons and lived with a nicaraguan family



We rented a vacation house in Granada



We endured daily power and water cuts until Ortega came into power in January 2007


We went to Las Isletas on Lago Colcibolca



We visited Masaya and the huge crafts market



We climbed Volcan Mombacho and saw howler monkeys



Christy began volunteering with La Esperanza Granada



We visited the volcanic islands of Ometepe



We spent many blissful days at la Laguna de Apoyo




We found a kitten in the gutter



We left Granada in September 2006 to travel to Esteli, Matagalpa, Jinotega, and the Selva Negra


Eric took a full time position as a reporter for the Nica Times and freelanced for the SF Chronicle
We returned to Granada in October and rented our second home for a year
Since then we've been working and volunteering and gardening. Michelle came to stay with us for 3 months and Christy's parents were here for 2 months - January and February. Jeannine and John, friends from NYC, came to visit us as well and more are welcome and scheduled to arrive!
And now that we are really settled, we promise to be better about emailing and updating our website - as long as the power stays on.
love, c & e

Sacuanjoche

Plumeria (common name Frangipani; syn. Himatanthus Willd. ex Roem. & Schult.) is a small genus of 7-8 species native to tropical and subtropical America. The genus consists of mainly deciduous shrubs and trees. P. rubra (Common Frangipani, Red Frangipani), native to Mexico, Central America, and Venezuela, produces flowers ranging from yellow to pink depending on form or cultivar. From Mexico and Central America, Plumeria has spread to all tropical areas of the world. In Nicaragua, the plant is known as Sacuanjoche and is the national flower.

April 26 - tiny buds!!





May 8






May 15







May 22




May 23






May 26

Plumeria is related to the Oleander, Nerium oleander, and both possess poisonous, milky sap, rather similar to that of Euphorbia. Each of the separate species of Plumeria bears differently shaped leaves and their form and growth habits are also distinct. Plumeria flowers are most fragrant at night in order to lure sphinx moths to pollinate them. The flowers have no nectar, and simply dupe their pollinators. The moths inadvertently pollinate them by transferring pollen from flower to flower in their fruitless search for nectar.
May 27

Volcan Masaya

Volcan Masaya is an active volcano located outside of Granada. My family and I, along with Michelle, took a night tour to view parrots, bats and a lava hole that was created in the last few years during a minor eruption. Enjoy the photos!